The Skye Guide

The independent guide to the Isle of Skye

Welcome to The Skye Guide

The Skye Guide is an independent and personal view of the Isle of Skye. It is written mainly with visitors to the island in mind, but I hope it is useful to residents and potential residents as well.
I have chosen to make my home on the island, so my views are not impartial - but neither are they uncritical. Places are mentioned in the guide mostly because I like them and because I think you might.  If a place is not included, it may be because I would not recommend it to you, but equally it may be because I have not yet experienced it.

I am happy with that ambiguity...


Photographs

As well as the photographs accompanying the articles on this site, there are many more in the Picture galleries.  I have also posted more than 5,000 geo-located pictures of all parts of The Isle of Skye on Geograph.org.uk.

All the photographs on The Skye Guide, and on Geograph, can be reused under the terms of this licence. For high resolution versions and for commercial use, please get in touch.


Featured articles

 

Claigan Coral Beach

Skye is famous for many things, but great beaches are not high on the list. You'll find better ones on Harris, or Tiree, or Uist, or Berneray, or Iona. But there are a few wee gems on Skye, and the Coral Beach at Claigan is one of them. Its combination of accessibility and white sand make it a very attractive option on a warm sunny day.
Here is how to find it...

Approaching the coral beach

Take the road north from Dunvegan, past the castle, and follow it to its end at Claigan. There is a small car park at NG231537. From there, take the vehicle track that runs north-west to follow the shoreline of Loch Dunvegan. The start is not promising. There are cattle here who leave their mark - and odour - on the track, and by the shore there is often a lot of ugly flotsam washed up by the tides. After about 1km the track reaches a small sandy beach at Camas Ban. There are two errors that can be made here. One is to assume that this is the destination beach, the other is to keep following the track as it turns right and heads upwards and away from the coast. What you should do at this point is to leave the track, heading onwards through a gap in an old wall and then uphill on short grass. As you reach the top of the slope, the coral beach is laid out ahead of you.

Despite its name, and all these tales of the Gulf Stream, the beach is not made of coral at all. It is actually composed of pieces of dessicated and sun-bleached algae. If you look carefully it is still possible to find some fairly big bits away from where the crowds gather for beach games and barbecues.

The 'coral'

Just offshore is the tidal island of Lampay. If you want to cross and explore it, check the tide times . More rewarding options are to climb the small but prominent hill by the beach, or to continue your walk around the point and into Lovaig Bay. Either of these extensions to the walk will open up wonderful views over the islands in Loch Bay, and beyond.

Claigan beach

 

From the same car park, there is easy access to the Claigan Souterrain.
 

AquaXplore

Based at Elgol jetty, AquaXplore is part of the same excellent organisation as the Bella Jane. The differences are marked though!


AquaXplore

Trips with AquaXplore are on one of a pair of high-powered Humber RIBs. Each has 12 seats (you sit astride - a bit like a motorbike) and goes like the wind - about 30 knots actually. Exciting stuff. The guides/captains are great. They are skilled, safe, knowledgeable, personable, interesting and fun.

You can take short sightseeing and wildlife trips, or longer ones that visit other islands, giving you time ashore to explore Rum, Eigg or Canna.  There is a real chance of seeing red deer, puffins, seals, whales, dolphins, porpoises, basking sharks, sea eagles, puffins and a host of other sea birds on the trip.

I would say that if you want some organised fun when you are on Skye, this is the number one choice. It is an exhilarating experience you'll remember for a long time.

More information here

 

Glamaig

Glamaig from Sligachan
Sgurr Mhairi (Glamaig) from Sligachan

Glamaig is the northernmost of Skye's Red Hills. It is the seemingly perfect cone of scree that towers 775m above Sligachan and finds its way into the pictures taken by thousands of cameras every year. No matter how wonderful the hill looks from below, it is nothing to what the world looks like when seen on a clear day from the summit. This is one of the great viewpoints of Skye.

From Sligachan it looks, and is, a daunting climb on relentless steep slopes of grass and scree. There is a hill race held here each summer when mad folks run up and then career back down at astonishing speed. A chap called Havildar Harkabir Thapa seems to have started all this in 1899, when he ran from the bridge at Sligachan to the summit in 37 minutes and back down in 18 minutes. Today people do it a only a little faster. Feel free to try this route if you fancy it.

Happily for those of us who welcome the views more than the pain, there is an easier way. 

Glamaig summit ridge
The summit ridge of Glamaig

Glamaig is not actually the simple cone shape that you see from Sligachan. It is elongated to the east along the south side of Loch Sligachan and has a summit at each end. The higher one is Sgurr Mhairi (775m) at the west end. At the east end, above Sconser, is An Coileach (673m). The ridge between the summits is a delight. It is a pleasant walk on a broad ridge with short grass and firm ground – not at all like the sharp arête that it looks like when seen from the south.

Beinn Dearg Mhor from Glamaig
Beinn Dearg Mhor from Glamaig

The easier route begins from the A87 just south of Sconser, following the line of the fence that leaves the road at NG536314 and rises all the way to the ridge. There is no real path, but on the first steep section a narrow track has been left by walkers zig-zagging up through the heather on the left of the fence. Higher up, the remnants of the fence lead right up the centre of the scree filled gully seen in the picture below. It is not difficult to negotiate but, if preferred, it can be avoided by picking a line through the crags to the right.

An Coileach
Gully on ascent of An Coileach

The summit of An Coileach (The Cockerel) is soon reached, and all the hard work is done. The views from here are wonderful by any standards, in particular looking northeastwards up the Trotternish coast and over Raasay. Now there is a rewarding stroll of about a kilometre along the whaleback for the final gentle climb of 100m to Sgurr Mhairi (Mary’s Peak).  Here you'll enjoy a great prospect over Glen Sligachan to Sgurr nan Gillean and much of the rest of the Cuillin.

Sligachan from Glamaig
Looking down on Sligachan from the summit of Sgurr Mhairi

From the top, you may be tempted to try the 18 minute headlong charge to the bar at the Sligachan Hotel – but I’d recommend not! There are plenty more fine views to see on a return by the same route...

Raasay from An Coileach
View of Raasay from half way up An Coileach

 

Did you know?

A croft is not a building. A croft is a unit of land subject to the Crofting Acts. It may or may not have a house on it.
There are around 2,000 crofts on Skye.

Skye Guide Translator


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