The Skye Guide is an independent and personal view of the Isle of Skye. The things that are included in the guide are here because I like them - and because I think you might too. If something is not included, it may be because I would not recommend it to you, but it may be simply that I have not experienced it.
I am happy with that ambiguity...
Trumpan Church, Waternish
The ruins of Trumpan Church stand at the far north end of the Waternish Road, at NG225612. The site has a whole lot of stories to tell…
The Battle of the Spoiling of the Dyke
In 1578, Trumpan Church was the site of a revenge attack on the MacLeods by the MacDonalds of Uist. The MacDonalds crept up on the church, which was filled by a worshipping congregation. They barred the only door and set fire to the thatch, killing all the occupants save one young girl. She died of her injuries, but was instrumental in raising the alarm and thus securing the butchering of all the MacDonalds by the men of MacLeod of Dunvegan. The corpses of the MacDonalds were dragged back up the hill and then buried by collapsing a turf wall onto them – hence the conflict was named the "Battle of the Spoiling of the Dyke". It is said that human bones are turned up here to this day.
Trotternish - Beinn Edra
The walk to the summit of Beinn Edra from Glen Uig is the easiest way to experience some of the glory of the Trotternish Ridge. Navigation is mostly very easy and the ascent to the 611m summit is a gradual one. On a fine day, the views from the top - of the rest of the ridge, and of the Scottish mainland mountains - are exceptional.
Northwest Skye - Oronsay
This walk to the tidal island of Oronsay is a great favourite of mine for a short outing with long views. Navigation is simple, it is only about 5km for the return trip and it is mostly easy underfoot. The path can be boggy in places after rain, and it climbs to the top of 70m cliffs at the southern end of the island. But it's all pretty easy really, and very well worth a visit.
'Oronsay' is from the Norse for a tidal island. It is a common name in the north-west of Scotland. In fact there are two Oronsays on Skye alone. This one is situated just off the end of Ullinish Point at NG318364. There is a parking area at the end of the public road (NG322373) and a clear path runs from there along Ullinish Point to the causeway.
Trotternish - Caisteal Uisdean
Caiseal Uisdean, or Hugh's Castle, is one of the less famous castles of Skye. Its history is interesting though, and it makes a good destination for a pleasant coastal walk of under 3km return. Much of the route has been made into a vehicle track, so navigation is easy. By the point where you have to leave the track, the destination is in sight.
Although categorised here under 'natural wonders', this place is actually supernatural. It is also not well known - there are no roadsigns to point the way. Luckily, it isn't too difficult to find, just a short way off the main A87 south of Uig.
Leave the main road at NG397633, just by the Uig Hotel, climbing the hill on the wee road signed to Sheadar and Balnaknock. The fairies live about a mile up here. You'll certainly know when you have reached their special place.
Loch Bay by Michael Smith, Stein
Loch Bay Restaurant
Michael Smith was Chef Director of the Three Chimneys when it earned its Michelin Star in 2015. Now he is doing amazing things in his own Loch Bay Restaurant in Stein, on the Waternish Peninsula.
Opened in 2016, the restaurant is small, welcoming and comfortable. It offers two menus - a five course seafood degustation, or a fixed price three course meal. The latter gives a choice of three starters (seafood, vegetarian or meat), three main courses (ditto) and a third couse of either cheese, a pudding or a selection of small desserts.
Described as "Contemporary Scottish with classic French influences", the food is, as you should expect from a renowned chef, the sort of stuff that makes you say "Mmmm" quietly with every forkfull. Great ingredients, perfect cooking and beautiful but unfussy presentation. There's nothing at all pretentious about what you get at Loch Bay. And everything is wonderful.