The Skye Guide

If you ever visited The Granary in Portree before 2012, you'll be in for a pleasant surprise if you give it another go. The place has been spruced up in every way - service, surroundings and food. It's now possibly the best option for good basic eating in the village.

Located next to Mackenzie's Bakery on Somerled Square, The Granary serves food all day with a good choice from its menu, supplemented by a daily specials board. Portions are generous and everything I've tried has been very tasty.

Marsco is one of the classic hills of Skye. Its distinctive pyramidal profile dominates the view southwards from Sligachan. The views from its 736m summit are great, with a panorama of the main Cuillin Ridge, close views of Bla Bheinn, Garbh-bheinn and the rest of the Red Hills, and a wide outlook over the mainland.

There are several good routes to the top. The usual one leaves Sligachan following the Loch Coruisk path for about 3km. Leave that path to follow a patchier trail up the right bank (left side) of the Allt na Measarroch. From here there are two options. You can walk up the path a bit and then cross the burn and slog straight up the steep grassy slope of the hill's north ridge. A rather friendlier, though longer, route follows the burn all the way to the top to pick up the line of an old fence that skirts the bottom of Coire nan Laogh. The old rusty fence posts will lead you up onto the south ridge, from where it's an easy stroll to the summit. A third, shorter, way is to set out from the waterfall at the heat of Loch Ainort, following the pathless and often boggy left bank (right side) of the Allt Coire nam Bruadaran to reach the old fence at Mam a' Phobuill.

When you reach the summit, take a look down the 700m steep slope to the lochans in Glen Sligachan. In the last ice age - only some 12,000 years ago - this was the point above which the Skye ice cap was centred. The ice was about 1,000m thick, covering the top of the hill you're standing on - and all those you are looking out on close by...

There are several options for boat trips from Portree. The Spindrift is the only one I can wholeheartedly recommend.

The owners, crew, guides, caterers and hosts are all the same two people - and you couldn't wish for better. Kevin and Pam will look after you well. The Spindrift herself is stylish and comfortable, with seating in the main cabin round a big table as well as on the foredeck and up on the flybridge at the very top - making the most of the views and giving the best opportunities for spotting the abundant wildlife in the area. You can often see puffins, golden eagles, sea eagles, seals, basking sharks and porpoise on a trip along the Sound of Raasay, together with some amazing coast and mountain scenery. If you are lucky you can encounter otters and minke whales too.

As well as private charters and summer sunset cruises, the Spindrift offers frequent trips to both Raasay and Rona, each of which is quite magical in its own way. The schedule allows time ashore to explore some of the highlights of these islands.

To cap it all, tea and coffee is offered along with the biggest selection of chocolate biscuits I've ever seen outside a supermarket!

Enquiries and bookings can be made on 07769 701911